I thought very carefully about these paints.

A couple of years ago I went into a GW 'store' and made the fatal error of saying that I wanted to know about Contrast paints because I was thinking about buying some to sample them. The sales assistant just started telling me loads of stuff I didn't want to know, upselling products and generally spewing so much information at me that my head spun.

I know GW Washes - I have used them since the days of Chestnut Wash (still got some of that, very useful colour), so I'm quite happy with them but from everything I was seeing about 'slap chop' and so on, it looked like it would be worth trying contrast types of paint again.

I watched everything I could on YouTube - good and bad (youtubers - a tip - shut up and get on with it, rattling on for ten minutes about what you're going to do before you do anything at all is not good technique). In the end I decided to get some of the AP paints to try out.

Previously I would undercoat a figure - sometimes in white, and then paint thinned Vallejo Sunny Skin (I used to use airbrush thinner to thin paints, from now on I will use washing up liquid - good tip, thanks!). Over this I wash GW Reichland Flesh Shade (being sure to get the Matt version). I usually go back and high light the figure with the Sunny Skin.

I did a unit of these Trojan Spearmen (not Mycenaeans as per my previous post).


White undercoat, painted the figures' skin with AP Peachy Skin and wallop! Very happy with that. Quick, no fuss, lovely. Still stuff to do on them but overall, I'm quite pleased with the results so far.

I have also used the AP paints mixed with GW and Vallejo paints and GW washes, and can't see any problems.

So far.

What I am interest in seeing is what happens when you paint metallics over these Speedpaints. Normally I do metals over a black undercoat. I am curious as to what happens if I paint AP black over the armour and then do Vallejo Bronze over that (after a suitable drying time of course).

As indicated by the various expert contributors to this thread, "one man's meat is another's poison".
So if I recommend the Army Painter Quickshades, keep in mind they may not work for you.

The "place the entire figure in the can" method is not for me but the dropper bottles allow you to control your washing:

https://www.amazon.com.au/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B09GYRJHNH
The Soft & the Dark get the most use from me.

As Roger writes, no thinning required. However, I often use their Wash Mixing Medium:

https://www.amazon.com.au/The-Army-Painter-Quickshade-Mixing/dp/B078S5M4TZ

This isn't needed to thin their wash but to moderate the strength of the colour. I use a Quickshade "straight" for a dramatic effect, or moderate it with the medium for a more subtle effect.

Again, as Roger writes, you need to experiment & see what suits you.

And finally, keeping in mind I am an average painter, you might like to see some of my work over at Bennos:

http://bennosfiguresforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=173&t=26373

Thinned paint & washes by Ochoin (that's me). Montrose's troops tended to get stronger washes hence they are darker than the more gaudy Royalists.

cheers, donald

Loved the witty subject line Donald and further fun that it generated. A hearty laugh over a morning coffee!

I have nothing on you mob with your fancy army painters and washes!#.

I have two minor points that may be of use (interest). Likely not, but oh well!:grinning:

1. A tip that I was many years ago is to thin paint with de-ionised (DI)/distilled water rather than tap water.
I'm not too fussed during painting, but always use DI water to thin the stock of paint.
Like Roger, perhaps more so in our warmer location, washing brushes is a regular requirement for me. I simply use my wash jar of tap water (plus a little dissolved paint residue, depending on when last changed!). A drop or two off the washed brush serves to thin the paint in my 'palette' as and when required.

2. A decant a little paint at a time into a 'palette'
A tub/bottle of paint goes a long way when painting these small figures so I shake (and stir if in a tub rather than a bottle) before putting a few drops from the stirrer (usually the 'handle' of a worn paintbrush) into a well of one of my 'palettes'. These are simply used pill blister packs, which I have acquired in the hundreds over the years of saving from family and friends. I cannot paint quickly enough to use them!


Anyway, thanks again for the hearty laugh and interesting insights on a hump day morning,

James


#I'm happily stuck well and truly in the 80s and 90s with black undercoat (Payne's Grey), base coat of main colours, black acrylic ink wash (with a drop of Pledge One Go added to increase viscosity) and then highlight/dry brush.

Good on you, James. I am pretty well in the same 'stuck in the past' approach to painting. OK, so I've progressed beyond shiny enamels, although I do still have a stock of 'smelly' Humbrol pots and use them occasionally, but the world of quick-paint washes etc has left me behind.

So, I wash a little, and only when necessary. The rest of the time it's good, fairly solid (sometimes thinned) colours over a dark base coat. Works for me, anyway.