Kim, thanks , I did consider using my wife`s cake decorating table, that also spins, but then I thought there must be an easier way without the risk of molten metal flying everywhere,so I approached Jacklex who do an Ox wagon and who`s wheels are a similar size, and they are in the post,(all round great service too) so fingers crossed problem solved. As a side issue in the back of my mind was a previous experience with molten metal, making fishing lures from old lead pipe, melted lead and water do not mix,and I once melted pipe that must of had a tiny amount of water trapped in a kink , I was wearing goggles and fully covered clothes wise , but the resulting adverse reaction covered my garage with molten lead, the spread was like that of a shotgun, and no warning, so very respectful of working with molten metal.

Yes, I am sure you are right Alan, the idea of using a spinning device to do a bit of centrifugal casting is probably best kept as that - an idea and nothing else. I thought It sounded good in theory but as you recount it doesn't seem to be a particularly safe concept. (Unless you're wearing an asbestos suit !!)

Like yourself I am eagerly awaiting the Strelet's LRDG figures and the other desert themed subjects. The quality of the sculpting and subject matter of some of these sets are really impressive and I cannot wait for them to eventuate. Happy modelling ...

Centrifugal casting is really only suitable for large batches of items and it needs to be balanced, so a circular mould in form with a central poring area, as a result it can be expensive on silican rubber... not really suitable for a one off...

In the past I used grapfite powder to aid with casting in simple two piece rubber moulds, dust the mold liberally and make sure your metal is at the optimal temperature before casting, a large "plug" helps as well... .-)

Hi Alan, maybe a bit late responding here, but I have cast a fair bit of metal: first with the old range of Prince August Napoleonic moulds, then with my own creations. You might have gathered much of this already from Youtube etc, but some suggestions:

*The mould may perform better once warmed up a bit. I used to warm my moulds by placing them around the hot plate (n.b. 'around', not 'on'!) while the metal melts. I know others warm theirs in the oven.

*Try varying the clamping pressure used to join the mould halves together. Use boards to spread the pressure evenly across the moulds.

*Different white metal alloys will have different flow properties.

*Lightly dust the inside faces of the mould with talc and knock off any excess prior to casting.

*I would avoid centrifugal casting at this scale, it may well solve your problems, but a lot of hassle for just this. I would tap the mould smartly onto the counter just after the pour/tap it with some pliers (taking care not to spill it etc).

Thank you everyone ,fingers crossed this is sorted, but all your help has been appreciated.

If this does work and you perfect the art of casting wheels, Alan, there may be a niche business waiting in the wings....eg: AB Model Wheels? There is a market out there I'm sure.

Well I suspect the market is there, I remember helping a guy out in Canada years ago on the Hat forum, he was after wagon type wheels and I sent all I had, nothing that would have helped me had I kept them though. One of the guys on Bennos where I asked the same question suggested using resin in the same mould and showed an example, and resin may be the answer. But for me my mould making days are on hold.