Welcome to the Strelets Forum.
Please feel free to discuss any aspect of 1/72 scale plastic figures, not simply Strelets.
If you have any questions about our products then we will answer them here.
Thanks Ap,Graeme for suggestions.so far I have tried all plastic glue gel particularly on zvezda french cuirassiers and Saxon cuirassiers didn’t work yet on scabbards and swords.and carabines barrels with no luck. I will try staples hit them and attach them to plastics and dishwashing brush bristles sounds interesting.and im thinking to put miliput to shape it and use staples as base.thanks guys for help.best regards.
The results will also be very dependent of the use you have of your figures.
I agree Zvezda plastic is tricky. I personally use a lot sticky PVA glue because bit creates a sort of an elastic bond.for example when adding bayonet to rifle I first put some sticky glue on both rifle and bayonet and finish with super glue gel powerflex.
I have a similar process with the paint. I first undercoat with diluted sticky PVA glue and then I prime with black, white or grey with airbrush. The paint is lasting longer for the use we have with my son ie we play with them.
I hope this helps.
Thanks CPN I haven’t try this defenetly I will.thanks best regards.
You may learn to use soldering iron to attach small elements. Seriously.
Thanks umpapa.will do I used to fix soldiers -cracked parts,holes with preheated nail as a kid.why I didn’t think of that? Thank you very much greetings (dzenkuje bardzo,pozdrawiam).
Some brands can be glued with regular model glue, usually Imex, Pegasus, or HaT. Others can be glued using contact cements, such as Goo, sold in model railroad stores. Contact cement is not always the best choice.
Others can be glued using super glue and an activator. Loctite is a kit that includes the super glue and the activator. It's expensive. The secret is the activator.
First, prepare the plastic by washing the model and parts in warm soapy water, dishwashing soap is fine. Rinse it off completely and let it dry. Try not to handle the model any more than necessary. Apply the activator to both parts using a brush. Then apply the super glue to one part and press them together. I like to use a gap filling super glue.
The secret activator is N-Heptane. It's sold in art supply stores and used for thinning rubber cement. It's very cheap. With it you can use any brand of super glue.
Some items are best pinned together, I use size 9 guitar strings to pin the parts together. The guitar string is very thin, very strong, cheap, and works very well. When pinning do all the steps up to adding the super glue, then insert the wire using pliers. Put the super glue on the wire and press the two parts together.
Mike Bunkermeister Creek
Bunker Talk blog
Thank you Mike . I will definitely try that activator too.it is always good to have more options.
I use something my wife found in Walmart: Beacon "Quickgrip" which does what it says on the tube. It is a superglue gel, very thick but fast flowing which does give an instant hold, (and I mean instant, you have to work really fast with this stuff) that works on tiny pin point repairs where there there is hardly any surface area, such as gun barrels.
You get get it in Michaels craft store and on line from Amazon too. I have used it on all kinds of plastic including vintage Airfix as well as white metal - in fact I've just finished swapping out some weapons on Esci paratroopers with die cast ones from Sgts Mess.