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Please feel free to discuss any aspect of 1/72 scale plastic figures, not simply Strelets.
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This can be a bit tricky, because the figure manufacturers use different plastic... some is easier to glue then other. In the end, I'm pretty satisfied with the results I get with Loctite Super Glue Gel. But sometimes I still use the 'hot needle technique' to permanently attach pieces together.
I use the two part "All Plastics" glues with the primer pen and tube of super glue. Locktite originally but other brands have the same thing (Selleys in Australia). I have used this stuff on some Strelets figures that I was cutting bits off and glueing them back on and adding bits to. so far everything has stayed in place.
I think it was someone on this forum who suggested using staples to replace lost swords and maybe bayonets. They can be cut to length and cut or filed to a point. Great idea! but care is needed when handling the figures because they have real mini steel sabres.:laughing: Dressmaking pins or needles woul be another option. Broom bristles for spears and lances. Nylon dishwashing brush bristles make good ramrods, also good for plastic pins when glueing arms or legs or heads back on.
For other broken things I can only suggest that some sets have spare items like muskets, swords, bugles, flags, and artllery ramrods that you can use to replace the broken item.
Using the original broken part is best so I have a small jewelery box. Anything that breaks off, or I cut off, is put in the box so it doesn't get lost until I get round to glueing it back on.
Thanks Ap,Graeme for suggestions.so far I have tried all plastic glue gel particularly on zvezda french cuirassiers and Saxon cuirassiers didn’t work yet on scabbards and swords.and carabines barrels with no luck. I will try staples hit them and attach them to plastics and dishwashing brush bristles sounds interesting.and im thinking to put miliput to shape it and use staples as base.thanks guys for help.best regards.
The results will also be very dependent of the use you have of your figures.
I agree Zvezda plastic is tricky. I personally use a lot sticky PVA glue because bit creates a sort of an elastic bond.for example when adding bayonet to rifle I first put some sticky glue on both rifle and bayonet and finish with super glue gel powerflex.
I have a similar process with the paint. I first undercoat with diluted sticky PVA glue and then I prime with black, white or grey with airbrush. The paint is lasting longer for the use we have with my son ie we play with them.
I hope this helps.
Thanks CPN I haven’t try this defenetly I will.thanks best regards.
You may learn to use soldering iron to attach small elements. Seriously.
Thanks umpapa.will do I used to fix soldiers -cracked parts,holes with preheated nail as a kid.why I didn’t think of that? Thank you very much greetings (dzenkuje bardzo,pozdrawiam).
Some brands can be glued with regular model glue, usually Imex, Pegasus, or HaT. Others can be glued using contact cements, such as Goo, sold in model railroad stores. Contact cement is not always the best choice.
Others can be glued using super glue and an activator. Loctite is a kit that includes the super glue and the activator. It's expensive. The secret is the activator.
First, prepare the plastic by washing the model and parts in warm soapy water, dishwashing soap is fine. Rinse it off completely and let it dry. Try not to handle the model any more than necessary. Apply the activator to both parts using a brush. Then apply the super glue to one part and press them together. I like to use a gap filling super glue.
The secret activator is N-Heptane. It's sold in art supply stores and used for thinning rubber cement. It's very cheap. With it you can use any brand of super glue.
Some items are best pinned together, I use size 9 guitar strings to pin the parts together. The guitar string is very thin, very strong, cheap, and works very well. When pinning do all the steps up to adding the super glue, then insert the wire using pliers. Put the super glue on the wire and press the two parts together.
Mike Bunkermeister Creek
Bunker Talk blog