My tiller has about 1" of free play in either direction before the rudder engages. This has got steadily worse over the past year. Anyone know what the 'fix' is? E-mails to Piper have gone unanswered.
Hi Roger. I'll find out for you and get back after the weekend, strange you haven't had a reply, sorry about that.
I've spoken to Simon, who says they use the same method for fixing rudders as we used to, so David says (initially he said bang it with a hammer)
It's like a lock spindle, so a good firm knock down should do the job.
It doesn't sound too technical - let us know how you go on.
All the best
Thanks, Dot. A fitter at Mercia told me that also, so I walloped it with a club hammer (via a piece of wood to avoid damage) but it wouldn't budge. There is a set screw below the brass collar where the tiller spindle enters the bearing on the stern. Should that be removed first, maybe?
Is the knuckle or collar of the shaft touching the top of the bearing?
I'm not sure, could be. I did not realize there is a flange on the shaft, none is visible. (I'm in Phoenix now so I can't check that).
If you send us a photo when you're over here we'll have a look. Look forward to hearing from you.
Was annoyed by a rattling tiller so contacted Tony Payne at Red Bull Basin and in June last year spent a couple of days out of the water when the the complete tiller assembly was removed and repaired. Surprising the amount of wear on the tiller spigot and mountings merely by the swinging of the tiller arm. More to the tiller than meets the eye but what a difference when corrected.
I did photograph the tiller assembly removed but posting them is another world.
Thanks for the pic. No this shouldn't be removed. It needs a really good wallop - that should do the job. Failing this it would be best attended to next time you're blacking.
Give it some welly!
We have a message from Roger to say that a firm wallop with a big hammer has solved the problem!
Roger and Dot,
In the post you said to wallop the Tiller with a hammer, but where should we wallop it?
hi can you post picture of what part to hit with hammer thanks
I can't figure out how to post photos here so I put one at the end of my 2015 journal at http://www.public.asu.edu/~icrjc/Narrowboat/Summer15.html
Page down to the last photo on the journal and click to enlarge. The strike point is arrowed at the bottom of the swan neck. The fitter hit it so hard it deformed the metal. "Helped me with my anger management problems no end", he said.
thanks for that i will try this at the weekend
OK. I forgot to mention that it's a good idea to soak the brass collar bearing cover with WD40 the day before to help it slide up when you hit the swan neck.
hi got same problem should the small bolt stop the collar moving and then allow the swan neck to move inside
No, according to Dot Piper, you don't need to touch the small bolt. I can't remember what it's for but it doesn't stop the rudder post moving.